Of all the people on the planet, those with the best balance, with the most well-defined dantiens, are the surfers, the boarders, and their ilk, and the reason they have fantastic balance is because they insistently search for more and more difficult waves to ride, waves that demand a level of spirit that would, at the very least, paralyse the average person. And the only reason they improve is because they are not only willing to fail, they expect failure, they welcome and invite failure because they know that this is the only way. Investing in loss.

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